A bicycle tour of the USA... and Canada
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Oswego, NY

20/7/2013

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I feel relaxed and refreshed having done nothing today.

The weather has actually been very cool!! There was a lot of heavy rain in the morning but other than that it would have been a great day to be on the road.

I'm pleased I didn't ride though.

Other than eating lots of food, I have been trying to solve a dilemma as to what my final route should be.

I know that my final destination is going to be Linconville, Maine.

I want to achieve the coast to coast badge sooner though. I like the idea of arriving at the East Coast close to Biddeford or Portland (which are hopefully picturesque spots???), then heading north to the end point.

I have also toyed with the idea of going to NY, NY, or Boston but think it will add too many miles. I appreciate the offers of a place to stay in both cities though :)

My main question has been whether to keep following the Adventure Cycling maps.

I'm not convinced about these routes. I feel like businesses and people on these routes are too familiar with cyclists. I wonder if some of the motels prices go up and people get a bit bored of more cycling odd balls passing through.

The benefit is you get a useful, easy to follow maps with tips on hill climbs and services etc. especially useful when planning journeys over mountains.

On the other hand, ignoring the ACA maps and choosing a complete random route means you pass through towns that have zero Cycling traffic which I find refreshing. I'm convinced motels are better value. It's a bit more hit or miss.

At the moment I have decided to follow the ACA route because a section of the Appalachian mountains is ahead. Once I'm past the really difficult climbs (350 miles from here) I think I will free style my days again.

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Cycling diet, even on a day off!
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Wolcott to Oswego

19/7/2013

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I achieved my objective today which was to avoid riding after 11am.

Even between 7 and 11 it was extremely uncomfortable. It was slow and steady progress.

Since Chicago the landscape has been pretty flat, but in the last couple of days things have got noticeably hillier. Some of the climbs today were actually really steep, but at least brief.

I'm pleased to say I only went 31 miles. As soon as I had checked in a wave of relief hit me. I'm really looking forward to just chilling until Sunday.

Saturday is predicted to be another scorcher but after that things should cool down (to mid to high twenties) and the humidity should drop a bit.

I'm going really benefit from just chilling and recharging. Trying to exercise when it's like this really does wear you down.

Today I reached Lake Ontario meaning I have ridden the coast of three of the Great Lakes. The other two were of course Lake Michigan, Lake Erie.

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Lake Ontario
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Fairport to Wolcott

18/7/2013

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The highlight of today's ride was finding a street called GobblersKnob Road. I took a small detour to ensure it wasn't a mistake by google maps. It seemed like any other rural road except admittedly it didn't look like there was much demand for housing and the few houses I saw looked like the owners needed to show a bit more pride. I also found 1 business on the road that called themselves Sukup. I would love to see one of their addressed invoices.

Tomorrow I'm going a maximum of 30 miles and I'm not riding a bike or undertaking any exercise, or movement of any type after 11am.

If I see the sun after 11 it will be from within a cool air conditioned room. I will be wearing sunglasses and be surrounded by cold drinks.

This is how I intend to spend the following 36 hours after arriving at my destination tomorrow.

This heat and humidity is too oppressive and I've had enough of it.

I started the day with no energy as a result of yesterday's sun exposure. I was out of my room at 7 but I still needed to find somewhere to eat. This meant I was going to lose valuable riding time. Ideally I would have eaten and been on the road sooner.

My problem today was working out where I could finish up. I had a couple of motel options after only 20 miles but they looked dire and were a good distance from anything that I would have found useful, like a restaurant or shop.

Other than that my next option was in Wolcott which meant a 45.6 mile ride. I wasn't keen on this option because I thought it might mean riding in the mid day sun. Also the review of the only motel in Wolcott were pretty bad. I feared the worst but it turns out I have been in worse places.

I arrived having thoroughly overheated but luckily it wasn't too late in the day in the end. I managed to get there by 12 despite my worrying.

Still, the temperature was 26C at 8am and climbed over 30C by 9.30. From 10.30 it was killing me. My gps said it hit 33C but with the humidity it felt more like 36/37C

I'm happier about tommorrow's plan because there are lots of accomodation options. I hope that after a day off temperatures will cool off at the end of the weekend.

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Albion to Fairport

17/7/2013

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I have now been on the road for such a long time I'm getting a bit anxious about finishing. It's going to be strange to have no focus anymore.

I planned this trip for so long and very soon the whole thing will be over. Of course I'm going to feel very proud, if and when I finish, but there is definitely going to be a bit of a void.

I have had fleeting thoughts about continuing to travel the world on my bike but that's allot to take on as a solo traveller. It's not as simple as just packing a backpack and hopping on a bus, boat or plane. Every day requires a plan A, B and C.

I can't imagine repeating some of the mind and ass numbing days in Kansas/Nevada etc. But the other days, riding across California, Colorado, Utah and seeing San Fran, Chicago, the Grand Canyon and Niagra Falls has made the whole thing such a positive experience.

I have definitely gotten everything I wanted from this journey and more.

My main motivation now, with 2 weeks or less to go is thoughts of crossing the 'finish line', or hitting the coast. I just can't wait. It's going to feel extremely rewarding.

Boring day today - all about the weather.

I was up early again and had eaten breakfast and hit the road by 7am.

I had decided not to ride after mid day because of the extreme heat. This gave me only 5 hours make up some miles. I had decided to take it easy and thought I would only make it as far as Rockport. I had done 30 miles by 10am though and felt good. I'm pleased with myself because in the end I managed 49 miles and arrived in Fairport at almost exactly 12.

It's a good feeling checking in somewhere so early knowing you have the rest of the day to relax and get organised. This whole week is going to be the same story. While its this hot I don't plan on riding after mid day if I can avoid it. I will put in some long days again as soon as things cool down.

I've been lucky to be riding a trail following the Erie Canal for the last two days. It's really kept the temperature down. As soon as I hit asphalt during the last 3 miles of today's ride I instantly started to boil. I was pouring sweat down my face. The heat radiating from the cars and the road was very intense.

since arriving I have tried to keep cool and avoid going out, but my aircon hasn't really been coping either.

Random stats;

total miles travelled - 3348

distance between Australia most eastern and western points is 2485 miles.

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Niagra Falls, Canada to Albion, NY, USA.

17/7/2013

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A perfect start to the day.

I reluctantly got out of bed at 5.50am. The motivation for this early start was fear of the mid day sun and humidity which has made riding conditions extremely tough.

By the time I had eaten in an extremely slow diner and hit the road it was 6.50.

I arrived back at Niagra Falls at 7am and as I had hoped, there were hardly any people there. It was a much nicer way to view the falls.

The sun was still very low and sat right behind the huge cloud of mist created by the water hitting the rocks. It looked great but I don't think my camera caught the moment.

After seeing it again briefly from the Canadian perspective I crossed the bridge and border (which was very painless) and went to see the falls from the American viewpoints.

Wherever you view from they are brilliant but the Canadian side definitely wins, hands down.

By 8am I'd had a good look from every viewpoint I could find and I hit the road.

I commenced the last leg of the journey.

Looking at the US map I am almost done. There is still the small matter of covering a distance that is the rough equivalent of lands end to John o groats. Almost there!!

The journey today was 58 miles. The first 10 consisted of riding a main road but after that I hit a path that follows the length of the Erie Canal. It's not Tarmac but it is rideable. Most importantly though here are no cars or lorries to worry about. In fact there were very few cyclists, walkers and even boaters about. This weather is just too hot and people are staying indoors.

Apparently we're now in a heat wave too. I didn't want to be on the bike after 12.30 ish but I got caught out and was stuck in the sun until about 2.30.

I thought I was coping quite well until I stopped under a bridge for some water. I didn't feel like stopping but did anyway. As soon as I was stationary sweat started dripping from me. I was soaked and spinning a bit. I also simultaneously felt like being being sick and err, going to the loo but held it all in. I got a grip, cooled down and waited until I felt normal again. After that I slowed my pace a bit, but I wasn't exactly racing before!

I arrived in Albion and then got a bit frustrated finding a place to stay. I eventually found a motel on the edge of town.

When I went to my room it stank of damp. They has clearly recently had a flood or been caught out by heavy rain. They gave me an option to take that room or go to another which would have next to no wifi. I took the room with no wifi and breathable air option.

Unfortunately this means I can't update the blog unless I'm in a pub with wifi. So here I am. It was a tough consequence but I'm coping.

This weather is predicted to go on until the weekend. I'm probably going to do a very short day tomorrow.

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Port Colborne to NIAGRA FALLS !!!

15/7/2013

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I rode my bicycle to Niagra Falls !!!!!!!!

I allowed myself a lie in and a low mileage day today. I left home at 9 am and went looking for breakfast. After I had eaten at Tim Hortons, Canada's staple coffee and doughnut shop, I made the journey to Niagra Falls.

It was further than I had mentally prepared for but still only 23 Miles. I was riding with real anticipation and excitement at seeing such a famous landmark and hoped it would live up to expectations.

I decided to check into another motel just before hitting the tourist zone. I wanted to savour the spectacle rather than rushing some sightseeing and riding on. This is after all one of the highlights and major milestones of my trip across the States, and now Canada.

After showering and changing out of my scary cycling shorts, I headed (on only a 5/10 minute ride) to the falls. I wasn't sure if I would be approaching it from the top or the bottom. When I hit the river it was flowing in the same direction I was riding, so was pleased as this meant I would be viewing from the top.

It was a great spectacle. The amount of water you watch flowing over the side, so quickly and with such power is really impressive.

You wouldn't think a lake could sustain such an escape of water but that says something about the size of the Great Lakes.

There were tourist viewing points at every angle. At the bottom, at the top, in boats, in helicopters, in high rise buildings, on a bridge. looking over to the American side you could see they also had all the same bases covered.

Every available viewing point was full of tourists.

I'm looking forward to passing through again at 7am tomorrow when hopefully it will be a bit easier to get a good viewpoint. It was still great to be there today though.

It was absolutely roasting. After checking out the falls I ventured into town to look for a barbers. When I finally found one the lady cutting my hair asked why I was riding my bike on a day like this. I said I wasn't really, this was just a day off.

The next 4 days are supposed to be extremely hot and humid too so my mileage may be on the low side. I'm going to try to get on the road before 7am to beat the heat of the day. It may be a little difficult though because I'm treating myself to a celebratory beer today.

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Tillsonburg to Port Colborne

14/7/2013

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The more I continue on this journey the more I am convinced I should have frozen some sperm before I left England. I fear the worst regarding long term damage to my testicles. I have been looking for motels with a bathtub so that I could immerse my legs etc in cold water. Now I'm thinking that just a sink will do the job.

The Brooks saddle, which on occasion is very comfortable is supposed to mould into your shape once it's broken in. This is why they are so popular. I do love my saddle. It had become a part of me. After some rides we are inseperable.

Unfortunately, as my saddle changes shape to match mine its starting to look like its been in a conker fight, and lost.

You should not judge a Brooks by its cover though - I can confirm it is winning this conker fight.

I think I'm suffering from that rare condition, invertotesticleitus

I don't want to put you off your breakfast so I will try and tell you about today's journey instead.

It was very bumpy.

It was a much hotter day than the previous 2. It's didn't drop below the 30C mark between 11am and 3pm. Humidity levels also climbed right back up again. It properly 'did me in'. I'm a happy man though because I managed 82.96 miles.

That's 254 miles in 3 days and 3,267 in total!

I can confirm that Canadians love yard sales!! In three days I estimate to have ridden past at least 30. They literally pop up every few miles. It's very strange. They definitely like selling junk allot more than they like passing strangers. I have had many grumpy looks coming my way which has really surprised me. I was expecting Canada to be even more friendly than the USA.

I have reached Port Colborne. From here there are some nice relaxing bike paths to follow until I reach Niagra Falls.

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Blenheim to Tillsonburg

13/7/2013

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I managed another good day today. 87.81 miles and I arrived in Tillsonburg just before 5pm

It was a long day - over 9 hours, including stops for food.

I had told myself I would only ride 55 miles and stop at St Thomas. However when I got there the town really pissed me off so I just carried on. I felt like Steve Martin in Trains Planes and Automobiles.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nWRxPDhd3d0

I stopped at various Motels to ask if there was any availability and got wound up on each occasion. So I decided to pedal on. Just having a grumpy day I think.

I kind of feel like a day off but I'm determined to reach Niagra Falls in good time. If all goes to plan tomorrow I will reach Port Colborne which is very close to the big attraction. This means I can get up early the following day and have plenty of time to explore, before crossing to see it from the USA viewpoint too.

I'm really looking forward to getting a mobile back when I cross back to the America. I realise now how much I rely on it for calling ahead to arrange accomodation. It's also really useful for double checking you are on the right road on the maps app. Getting used to working without it has just been a pain in the backside.

Not being able to plan ahead had stressed me a little. I can't complain though. I'm lucky to be living a carefree life at the moment. It is a real physical strain though and my backside and legs have constant discomfort after about 10am on any given day.

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Detroit, USA to Blenheim, Canada

12/7/2013

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Today started with Wes and myself loading our bikes onto his truck for the journey over the Ambassador Bridge and into Canada. Cyclists are not allowed to cross so I needed some help to get over. This also eliminated some urban riding through Detroit which could have been hairy.

Once across and into Canada Wes accompanied me for about 10 miles until we reached Amherstburg. After Coffee and a Doughnut we said our goodbyes and I continued my journey alone again.

Thankyou Wes and Barbara for being so hospitable and helping me see so much of Detroit.

It's a good feeling to be riding in a different country. It's also rewarding having a 2nd country to add to the list of statistics for this bike ride. I wonder if it will be the last?! Does anyone want to quit there job, evict their kids, release their pets and ride through South America with me?

It was a great day for riding. Temperatures dropped to average in the mid twenties. Most importantly though, the humidity dropped from 6,090,988,865 on the humidity scale back to normal levels.

After Amherstberg I turned and headed east and faced a slight head wind. It wasn't the kind of head wind that drives you to a nervous breakdown, but you knew it was there.

Because of the good conditions I decided to push for a good day. I managed 83.6 miles. I was riding very slowly for the first 40 miles, but after lunch I seemed to find some extra energy. I was stood up and pedalling hard for long periods of the final 40 odd miles.

I'm without a phone (and as a result live track) while I'm in Canada so I rode into Blenheim blind. I knew there were 3 places to stay but hadn't called ahead to any of them. On arrival the first had no vacancies and the 2nd had shut down. I was getting worried and was very thankful when I found the third was open and had a space for me. This could have meant lots if extra riding but the motel gods were nice to me.

My route us now going to simply skirt the top side of Lake Erie until I reach Niagra Falls.

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Lake Erie as seen from Canada
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Detroit

11/7/2013

2 Comments

 

Detroit is a city that is in a sad state of affairs but has potential to be another Chicago, or better. (In my opinion, formed after the briefest of visits)

The population peaked close to 2 million but now only numbers around 700,000.

As a result so much of it is derelict and the city can't afford to keep on top of all the services. Some blocks may only have 1 house inhabited. Arsonists burn down property after property and the charred remains of rubble and timber just sit where buildings used to. There is no money to clear it up. It seems there is too much work for the broke police and fire services.

Rich (?) and lazy Landlords have all these properties which sit empty and deteriorate. Some truly grand and previously magnificent places just stand as shells, like ghosts, you can see right through them except for a tangled structure that has crumbled within their walls.

The whole place still seems to have a soul though. There are some vibrant multi cultural areas with with lots of colour and life.

I was told by Brian that he has watched the city decline since 1967 but thinks in the last few years it has seen a turning point. People are now hopeful things could be on the up.

You can buy some fantastic detached houses for as little as $40,000 and a beautiful mansion for a couple of hundred!!!!!

My prediction - This place is going to go from strength to strength. It has a brilliant, gritty, urban feel to it. There is so much cheap land, buildings and opportunities for people with initiative here.

This is the place to invest. In 20/30 years it's going amazing.

We had a tour of the Heidelberg project. Basically a few blocks of unused, derelict or barely occupied properties that an artist tried to change for the better. Houses were painted various colours, some with giant polka dots, or thousands of vinyl records. Various random skulptures or collections of urban waste used in random ways. Decorated trees and pavements.

Some of it just looks like junk but other bits looked amazing.

My pictures don't do it justice.

I'm very glad I got to see Detroit. And thankyou Anne, Wes and Brian for showing me the best and worst of the City.

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